A Day out at Loch Rannoch
In our summer articles, we usually cover walks and other outdoor activities, but of course that not every day of a Scottish summer is realistically going to be dry and sunny. Also, not everyone has the same levels of mobility and sometimes all of us like to do something that’s not physically active, while still doing something nice. A drive through beautiful scenery starts looking like a good option at this point, and we highly recommend Rannoch for this.
Rannoch is basically one big dead end, unless you’re planning to take a train at the end of it. But whichever way you get to it (either from the direction of Aberfeldy or Pitlochry) the scenery on the way is pretty spectacular. Choose the picturesque Schiehallion road or go through Tummel Bridge and enjoy the views over Loch Tummel. The really impressive thing about Rannoch, though, is the variety of scenery you drive through once you arrive.
Dropping down into Kinloch Rannoch presents you with an amazing vista down Loch Rannoch (unless it’s raining, when you may not be able to see very far down it). Make sure you also stop to check out the waterfall cascading down the Craig Varr side of the village, browse the Shed Gallery and enjoy a coffee in the little cafe.
Once you’re ready to continue, you can choose to go down either the south shore or the north shore of the loch. Don’t worry too much over this decision — you can always come back the other way. For this article, I’m going to assume you choose to start with the south side (my preferred way), but if you choose the opposite you’ll just need to flip everything round.
If you go down the south side first, you’ll start among leafy birch woodlands and a stoney shoreline. About half way down, this merges into a much darker, evergreen woodland which is in fact the Blackwood of Rannoch. It’s said their are capercaillies somewhere in the dense shadows, and maybe even a panther…
A little further along, you’ll suddenly realise that you’re in much barer landscape, without having noticed quite when the trees were replaced with open hillsides and mountain views. Look out for the Hygge House here, and also the little hamlet of Finnart, which has some very charming cottages, old post office and old school, sadly now not used as such, but at least refurbished into a family home.
Now you are at the head of the loch and can begin the wild and wonderful drive down to Rannoch Station. The burn down the side of the road here is a good indication of things to come, beautiful but untamed, with massive boulders and tumbled water.
As you go, look out for the small dam, and also the ‘frog stone’. You’ll know it when you see it. A bit further along is a small loch, most notable for the stunning backdrop of the Glencoe hills behind.
When you finally get to the station, you’ll want to get out and have a wander around, stretch your legs, possibly see a train and maybe pay a visit to the Rannoch Station Tearoom if they have space for you — it’s usually very busy over the summer months. Alternatively, you may want to bring a picnic. Just be aware that the Rannoch midges and clegs (horseflies) are of a special, extremely fierce variety, or at least they feel like it, so plan ahead with insect repellent and covered up limbs.
Now, unless you’re taking the train, your only option is to turn around and go back again, but it does mean you get to admire the spectacular scenery from the other direction. And of course, once you get back to the loch, you can go down the other side of it, looking out for the striking peak of Schiehallion in the distance.
The north side is mostly notable for some lovely sandy beaches. There’s quite a few places to park near these, and make a great spot for a break. Something to be aware of is that these delightful spots were plagued by many irresponsible campers over the last couple of years, and the locals have become understandably sensitive about visitors in some of these areas, so do make sure to be respectful if spending any length of time at these beaches. Take rubbish home with you and don’t cause damage or disturbance to wildlife.
After driving past lots of farmland and the hamlet of Killichonan, you’ll soon be back in Kinloch Rannoch. The whole drive should take you a coupe of hours, not counting any stops you might make. The real beauty of it is the variety of scenery you’ll get to experience, from spectacular waterfalls, to leafy woodlands, to mountain peaks, to wild and empty moorland, to sandy beaches, to mysterious forests. It’s all here in Rannoch.
